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I don’t see my bike listed on your website; do you make a kit for it?
We regret to say we do NOT do "one-off" or "custom" turbo systems. Please see the full list of our kits on our turbo systems page. If you do not see your bike listed, it's because we do not manufacture a kit for that particular bike and don't have current plans for one. We will debut and inform you of new kits when they are available. But, if you have a desire to build your own turbo system, we can supply you with the raw components to build such a system (see Universal Kit info). If you decide the universal kit is right for you, please call and speak with one of our Technicians.

Do you install turbo kits from other companies?
No, we have had to start turning this work away because of the time it takes away from our customers, sales and installs of our own turbo systems. Our suggestion? Sell those turbo kits you’re having trouble with and buy ours. We’ve been supporting our customers for almost 30 years. We’ll be there.

What are the benefits of a turbo bike versus a normally aspirated bike for ridability on the street and the strip?
Simply put, more power. Adjustable power. Turn it up or turn it down. All Mr Turbo systems are equipped with external wastegates, easily adjustable. Street manners are as good as a stock bike, especially all of the late model fuel injected models.

What is the best carburetor (the Mikuni HSR 42, Bendix, etc.), and does it fit on the Rajay turbos?
The Mikuni is the best carb we have ever found, tested and sold for draw through turbo systems. Mikuni worked with Mr Turbo exclusively with this carburetor upon its original release date back in the mid 90's to secure a better carburetor for the many draw through systems that were in use at the time. This carb (when set up as a turbo carb) is a far better carb than the Zenneth, Bendix, or Kehin's that were used in the past.
This carb can be mounted to any of the old Rajay turbos, or any Garrett turbo with a carbon seal set up. This carb can be used very successfully as a low boost street carb, or turned into an all out race carb for up to 30 lbs. of boost with the float bowl spacer kit that we make. So, anyway you slice it, the mikuni HSR 42 is the hot set up for your draw through turbo bike.

 

 

*More FAQ's coming soon.

How long does it take for my order to be shipped out?
If all the items in your order are in stock, it can take 1 to 2 business days (depending on time of order). If there is an item or items in your order that is out-of-stock, lead time depends on inventory in our warehouses.

Do you take international credit cards?
Yes, but only through Paypal.

Do you ship internationally?
Yes, through UPS and BAX Global.

Do I need part numbers when I place my order?
To expedite your order, it is highly recommended.

Are you open on Saturdays?
No. Visit our "Contact Us" page for our hours of operation.

Do you send orders COD?
Only by special approval.

How long does it take?
It averages about half a day for standard mapping for most bikes with upgraded air cleaners and/or upgraded exhaust; however, pick-up times can vary due to weather conditions.

Do I drop off my bike or do I stay and wait?
The bike has to be dropped off at time of appointment (9:00 am is our usual drop off time), but other arrangements can be made if you need to stay.

Do you do dyno work everyday?
Not normally. We do dyno work for the general public on Mondays. The dyno is usually tied up the rest of the week for R&D work.

Do you take walk-ins?
No. We do dyno work by appointment only, and usually one appointment a day.

Do you dyno all bikes?
We dyno all bikes that are fuel injected and have a power commander installed.

Can I make an appointment for anytime of the day [on Monday]?
No. Our drop off time is 9:00 am, and we will call you when it’s ready.

Do I get a print out of my dyno runs?
Yes

Does it come with an oil cooler?
Yes, with the Elite system.

Do you suggest a full tailpipe with the Stage II?
Both Stage I and II come with a banana (dump) pipe. A tailpipe that exits out the back of the fairing is an option. Any muffler can be adapted to fit this pipe.

Is the Stage I [Classic] just a more price friendly method to get into the turbo game so one has a taste, but the full deal is a bit more expensive?
The Stage I Classic is just that. It’s just the basic parts to get a reliable system running at a minimum price. The Stage I Classic & Elite allow for up to 10 lbs of boost, which is really the limit for the stock engine and fuel system. The Stage II & III add the necessary items needed for the progressing power levels.

If I start with the Stage I Elite, does Stage II piggy back all the components, or in the end, should one just “bite the bullet”, so to speak, and go all out?
The idea behind our Stage I Elite is that you can “upgrade” to the Stage II & III, so it’s really up to the individual budget.

With Stage II, what motor upgrades do you suggest?
Engine upgrades are simply based on the desired boost and horsepower levels. The stock engine is good for 10 lbs with no changes. The higher the power goes, the more upgrades to the engine are needed (i.e. valve springs, pistons, rods, etc.). Valve spring pressure is the first week link. The chain of weak link goes like this:

  • Stock crank is good for over 700 hp, so no need for work there.
  • Stock rods are good for up to 350 hp, so no need to upgrade those until you plan on 18 lbs of boost or more, or unless you plan on racing top speed runs with 300 hp or more.
  • Stock pistons fall under the same rule as the stock rods (good for up to 350 hp).
  • Stock cams are excellent.
  • Stock transmission is practically bullet-proof. Under all out racing conditions, a billet output shaft is recommended.
  • Stock valves are just fine.

With Stage II, can I use pump gas with octane booster, or should I stick to a Stage I Elite?
Pump gas is only good for 6 to 8 lbs of boost. Unless the system is intercooled, that’s all our pump gas (in the United States) is good for, and even then, a good octane booster should be used.

I would like to put nitrous on my bike as well. What comments do you have regarding a kit? Are there any special steps to this addition if I were to add it later? With a turbo, any extra parts necessary?
A wet NOS system is a must for reliability. Our turbo NOS system is a simple system that can be added to any turbo system at any point after installation. No extra parts are needed unless a progressive controller is desired.

Does an intercooler kit make any difference, at all, with the Stage I, or would it be mostly for the Stage II?
Intercooling is a great addition to any turbo system, but there’s simply no room on most motorcycles for a proper sized unit. Short of removing the head light and mounting one in that area, they are very difficult to utilize on a bike.

Is a Power Commander recommended?
A power commander has to be used with our system for proper mapping. Our systems come with mapping to load into your power commander, or we can sell you the power commander (with the system) with the mapping already installed.

What turbo do you use (size & brand)?
We mainly use Garrett turbo now, but for many years, we used Rajay turbos. We still service and support Rajay as well as Garrett, KKK, Holeset, Mitsubishi, IHI and others.

Do you work on car or boat turbos?
Not on the vehicle. We do have the resources to do complete turbo rebuilds on any turbo.

How much more power will the engine get using a full scale turbo?
Turbo systems can add any where from 20% to 100% more power, depending on engine modifications and the particular turbo system components used.

My turbo is smoking out the exhaust side. What is causing this if the turbo seals are ok?
**(The following answer is for draw through systems only.)**
1. Check the crank case breather on the engine. If this breather opening is plugged up or restricted in any way, the engine will be forced to use the turbo for a vent because the oil drain line is connected to the crank case. This would cause crank case pressure to pressurize the drain cavity in the turbo and force oil past the end seal ring into the exhaust side of the turbo.
2. Check the oil drain line itself. If it is kinked or restricted in anyway it can cause the oil to back up in the drain line and fill the turbo up from oil backing up into the drain cavity until it reaches the level of the turbine shaft at which time it will run past the end seal ring on the exhaust side. The end seal ring is not designed to hold back a flood of oil as in this situation. It's only designed to control a splash of oil which is all it normally sees from the beraing being fed oil from the oil supply side os the turbo. Also drain this line, must be a minimum of 1/2" inside diameter.
3. It is also important to make sure the oil drain fitting on the bottom of the turbo is indexed at any position from seven o'clock to five o'clock. The oil is simply gravity feeding out of the turbo, it is not under any pressure on the drain side, so if it is indexed any higher than these two positions, it will not drain out properly causing the oil to back up into the turbo drain cavity and consequently flood the turbo.
4. Lastly, make sure the engine is in good condition and has good ring seal. If the engine is not sealed up well it will create excessive crank case pressure causing the trouble described above in #1.